For starters here is my current motor setup:
K24A1 Block, Supertech 88mm 12.5:1 Pistons, Pauter Forged Rods, K20 Type-S Oil Pump, K20a2 Type S Oil Pan, Hybrid Racing Tensioner, Cometic Head Gasket,
ARP Head Studs, K20a2 Head (Ported by ASP Headers), Ceramic DCRH, IPS K2 Cams
Supertech Beehive Valvesprings & Retainers, Supertech Valves & Valve Guides, Drag Cartel Exhaust Cam Gear, RBC Manifold Cut and Ported by ASP Headers,
K-Tuned Billet Hall Effect TPS Sensor, Hondata IM Gasket, Karcepts RBC Throttle Body Adapter, Hybrid Racing Thermal Throttle Body Gasket, RDX 410cc Injectors,
Hasport Motor Mounts, Innovative Front Motor Mount, Custom 3" exhaust w/ vibrant resonator and k-tuned muffler, DC5R Tranny w/ TSX 6th Gear, Exedy Stage 2 Clucth Kit
Exedy Racing Chromolly Lightened Flywheel. K-Pro v4
I have been running a conservative street tune from Joe at LoCash Racing up in Tempe, AZ, redline is set to 9k rpm. I have been driving it with 0 problems since the motor was built 2500 miles ago. I have changed the oil 4 times, using Valvoline Racing 10w30. I was on my way to work last week and I started to hear what sounded like a knocking noise. As I was pulling into my work parking lot the oil pressure dropped to 0. So I quickly shut it down. About an hour later, I came out to try to start it and it acted a bit like the battery was drained a bit, the starter dragging a bit, but then fired up, and to my horror the knocking was louder... Here is a video of me starting it and the noise...
Here, just put the video on youtube: https://youtu.be/i72ZD9bf580
I took of the valve cover this morning, and everything in the head is perfect. Pulled the injectors, completely dry with no oil on them at all. Timing chain and tensioner are both intact and fine.
My suspicions are that I spun a rod bearing. If this is the case, can I just pull off the oil pan, and swap out the bearings slap it back together, and be on my way? Or is there usually more to it than that?
If this is usually a lot of work and money intensive, would it be a better idea to just grab another K24 block and swap the block out?
If this is the case I am thinking of pulling my Pauter Forged Rods, and Supertech pistons from my current block and selling them. Then leaving the OEM rods and pistons in the new block for the lower compression, and BOOSTING IT!
I am looking for any info or help from anyone that has spun a rod bearing and had to fix it. Anyone think that running my current setup the way I was, maybe the Type S oil pump wasn't able to keep everything oiled well enough up to 9k RPM? I am also really looking for info on how much of a pain it is to swap the rod bearings, (to push me towards a new block, and boosting my car).
Thank you in advance for your help!
K24A1 Block, Supertech 88mm 12.5:1 Pistons, Pauter Forged Rods, K20 Type-S Oil Pump, K20a2 Type S Oil Pan, Hybrid Racing Tensioner, Cometic Head Gasket,
ARP Head Studs, K20a2 Head (Ported by ASP Headers), Ceramic DCRH, IPS K2 Cams
Supertech Beehive Valvesprings & Retainers, Supertech Valves & Valve Guides, Drag Cartel Exhaust Cam Gear, RBC Manifold Cut and Ported by ASP Headers,
K-Tuned Billet Hall Effect TPS Sensor, Hondata IM Gasket, Karcepts RBC Throttle Body Adapter, Hybrid Racing Thermal Throttle Body Gasket, RDX 410cc Injectors,
Hasport Motor Mounts, Innovative Front Motor Mount, Custom 3" exhaust w/ vibrant resonator and k-tuned muffler, DC5R Tranny w/ TSX 6th Gear, Exedy Stage 2 Clucth Kit
Exedy Racing Chromolly Lightened Flywheel. K-Pro v4
I have been running a conservative street tune from Joe at LoCash Racing up in Tempe, AZ, redline is set to 9k rpm. I have been driving it with 0 problems since the motor was built 2500 miles ago. I have changed the oil 4 times, using Valvoline Racing 10w30. I was on my way to work last week and I started to hear what sounded like a knocking noise. As I was pulling into my work parking lot the oil pressure dropped to 0. So I quickly shut it down. About an hour later, I came out to try to start it and it acted a bit like the battery was drained a bit, the starter dragging a bit, but then fired up, and to my horror the knocking was louder... Here is a video of me starting it and the noise...
Here, just put the video on youtube: https://youtu.be/i72ZD9bf580
I took of the valve cover this morning, and everything in the head is perfect. Pulled the injectors, completely dry with no oil on them at all. Timing chain and tensioner are both intact and fine.
My suspicions are that I spun a rod bearing. If this is the case, can I just pull off the oil pan, and swap out the bearings slap it back together, and be on my way? Or is there usually more to it than that?
If this is usually a lot of work and money intensive, would it be a better idea to just grab another K24 block and swap the block out?
If this is the case I am thinking of pulling my Pauter Forged Rods, and Supertech pistons from my current block and selling them. Then leaving the OEM rods and pistons in the new block for the lower compression, and BOOSTING IT!
I am looking for any info or help from anyone that has spun a rod bearing and had to fix it. Anyone think that running my current setup the way I was, maybe the Type S oil pump wasn't able to keep everything oiled well enough up to 9k RPM? I am also really looking for info on how much of a pain it is to swap the rod bearings, (to push me towards a new block, and boosting my car).
Thank you in advance for your help!
Motor Problems K24/K20 Experienced Guy Please Help!
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